Took a bit of wandering, but I eventually found the Visitor Center for the Natchez Trace .  Google Maps kept sending me to the one of the sites and the NPS one is combined with the city Visitor Center.  Not the most intuitive, but I did manage to get my map and stamps.

This is one of the historic buildings I got a stamp for… Didn’t really feel like getting off to do the tour.  Way too hot.

And the other stamp – Melrose.  Legacy of some wealthier plantation times in Natchez.     Beautiful grounds.

The Natchez Trace Parkway s a green way along the old Trace.  Fairly shaded, very pretty, no billboards(or services, for that matter).  A very much welcome change of pace from running along the Interstates.   But it does feel very manicured and artificial. At time, the farms and ‘real life’ behind the scenes pokes through, ruining the illusion.   Don’t get me wrong, it was still much appreciated, but I think I have to admit that the type of trip has changed from the west.

I mean, this is a stop.  Emerald Mound, 2nd biggest Mound in the USA.  It was used for ceremonial purposes for the Indians…  But it’s still just a big manmade grassy hill. And the other mounds are even worse – they’ve been hit by erosion so they’re just fields now.

Oldest surviving building in the area.  Day’s walk up from Natchez itself, from before the steamships and the ability for boats to go upstream and the sailors “kaintucks” had to walk up the Trace to get home.

Another must see – the Sunken Trace, where erosion has put the path below ground level.  Makes me think of ambushes and hopefully scenes in Assassin’s Creed 3.

At Rock Springs – this is one of the stops on the tour.  It’s hard not to make comparisons between an empty postal office safe with a sign mentioning how little traffic this town got with the wonders of the National Parks out west.   I mean, rusting old safe, or hoodoo in Bryce Canyon?

Reservoir Outlook – reminds me a little of Yellowstone Lake.

I suppose this is the major difference between a National Park and a National Historic Park.  Perhaps I am cynical, but the natural wonders, we might not know very miuch about, but they stand for themselves.   This historic stuff, they seem to be trying their darnedest to attach significance to it – and not very successfully.  The Trace is fairly unique in the park system anyway, or so I’m told.   Hopefully the Northern half is better.

Fried chicken at Coop’s.  Very tasty.  Thin crispy skin with an excellent mix of herbs.  Somehow reminding me of something between fried and oven roasted.

I’m using my camp chair to wait for the fireworks.  Facing up the hill was a bit of a challenge.

Fireworks – what they lack in variety and subtlety, the Americans made up for it with size and volume.  Car alarm triggering levels.  And since they were dueling barges, everything happened twice.  As usual, even the prepared people didn’t bring radios, so I have no idea how well it went with the music.

Back to St Pierre’s for the night.  I had considered going out and roaming around Bourbon Street.  I seriously considered a ‘Hand Grenade’ – the strongest drink in New Orleans.  But there is a “trifecta” – Hand Grenade, Hurricane and something else.  Certainly not something I wanted to try to do and ride the next day. I guess I’ll save the drinking in New Orleans for another trip.

A quick blast on the 90 put me into New Orleans.  Getting off the highway and turning into the French Quarter was a nice change.  Checking into St Pierre was a good throwback into checking into places while travelling Europe.  Nowhere near as nice as the pictures.

The clerk sent me to Desire for lunch.  A little more expensive than I was expecting, but since that included a $10 drink, it wasn’t too bad.  Research into places on Chowhound afterwards did say it was a place the ‘locals’ went to, even if it was mostly for oysters in the half shell.  I had the ‘Peacemaker’ – half oyster and half a shrimp po’boy.  Delicious, but mostly because of the bread.

Deep fried goodness on very good bread.

Dinner was another sandwich and drinks at Napolean House – A place designed to house the exiled Emperor, but never used.  They apparently make the best muffaletta sandwiches and Pimm’s Cup drinks.

I thought the sandwich was a little dry – could have used more olive salad.

Finishing off the evening with some live music on Frenchmen Street @ Maison.  After the very disappointing scene on 6th Street, this was a nice change of pace.  Drinks were a little expensive and the band worked for tips.  I’d probably try a little more venue hopping the next time.

Everyone said to spend Independence Day in a big city.  I had reservations for July 3rd, so I had a to kill.  With all the wildlife preservers and managed areas, I thought the Bayou would be a good place to check out and find a place to camp for the night.  I should have booked a boat tour or a fishing charter.  Would have been time better spent.

Unfortunately, all in all, a bit of a failure of a day.  First mistake was taking the 90 – it pretty much runs the same route as the I-10, but closer to the railroad tracks on smaller roads.  Just as straight, but slower.  This may have been a good thing, since for whatever reason, I had the same issue as riding in LA.  I could not keep my eyes open – allergies/pollution?  I ended up pulling over a lot.

At least off the major highways, I got to go through a bunch of different neighbourhoods.  A good mix of really nice properties and houses.  TV show nice – manicured with people actively tending the lawns.  As well as lots overgrown with vegetation and signs for sale or lease.

With my eyes burning, I pulled over and had lunch was at Popeye’s – the other half of the Church’s Chicken supply chain.  I figured Louisiana would be a best place since it started here.   I’d say it was better than Church’s in San Antonio.

About the only ‘success’ of the day was putting on rain gear in time.  I saw wet cars with their wipers on coming the other way just before a drawbridge.  Pulled over to put on the gear just as it started to drizzle.   Crossing the bridge put me directly into the thundershower.   Crazy wet – but the gear worked, I stayed dry!  At least, for a while.   Eventually, I just sweat like crazy into the suit itself.   Similar levels of discomfort.  HIgher gross factor.

Riding around the Bayou really isn’t the way to see it either.  I get the feeling that the roads are on ‘stable’ ground, so fairly far from the ever shifting coastline.  Not a whole lot to see and not many bends.  There was a few fun bits just before 57 turns into 56, but generally not much to see.

As the afternoon wore on, I figured I should find a place to camp.  Google failed me again, although I’m starting to be able to see the pattern.  If Google doesn’t link to reviews from other sites, it’s probably not a good sign.  I did a few loops around the Mainstay Inn driving to various RV and Trailer parks before giving up and booking a room.

But since I was in a suite, I had a small kitchenette.  I managed to save a few bucks by eating my camp food.  Sardines, spam, instant noodles, beef jerky.

Another late start – but since this was from sleeping until my 9am alarm, it was probably much needed rest.  The maids weren’t too thrilled, but I guess on a lazy, wet Sunday, no one was in a rush to go anywhere.

Weather was pretty bleak.  When I first stuck my head out the door, it was hot and sunny, but it didn’t take long to cloud over.

Weather channel said pretty much nothing but hot weather.  Wunderground said 40% chance of thundershowers.  I sat on the fence, repacked my bags to get quick access to rain jacket and gloves, but actually put on booties and gortex overalls.  I should have gone all the way…  pulling over at the next exit is too long in these thundershowers… Now I was damp and marinading in a rain suit.  Could barely see the car in front…. traffic slowed to 30mph.

Things cleared up by Galveston.  I drove by Pleasure Pier, bit decided to eat before exploring.  Yelp suggested Benno’s and I opted for the deep fried.

I got through maybe half of it before the servers started clearing the outside condiments due to risk of rain.  I packed the rest and hopped back on the bike.

Quick trip along the shore road and looped past the ‘pay’ park.  On my way out, I decided to check out the ferry.  Gas light came on, so I took the chance to ask clerk about the ferry.  He said it was free and wouldn’t take long.

Listening was an experience.  Long hot lines with people feeding the seagulls.  Do not feed the birds you asshats!  Just waiting in line I got pooped on 3 times.

The ferry ride itself wasn’t much better.  I got stuck at the end of the line to fill a column… and the back is naturally where the ferry people tell people to fees the damn birds.  I would have ducked into the passenger area, but as I was getting ready to get off, I could feel Mend sway with the boat.  With all the extra weight, it felt outright scary.  So now I was watching the birds hover and really hoping they would poop on one of the feeders and praying Mend wouldn’t tip over.
Worst feeling ever was the ferry tapping against the dock.  Nearly peed myself.

On the other side, I got to see entire neighborhoods on stilts.  Houses built on sand.  Most of the motels looked like they didn’t even have windows to weather storms better…  still probably a gorgeous place to live when it’s nice.

I was now soaked in rain and sweat- both the temperature and nervous stuff.  Not to mention exhausted and not sure where to go.  Stopped at a Denny’s to grab some coffee, where the girls kept giving me a hard time about not eating.

Raindar seemed to show that east was a better bet, so I went by Port Arthur, Bridge City before settling in Fenton for a camp site.  Stopping to take a picture of the giant bridges, a random guy in a truck stopped to ask if I was okay.  Got to chatting about the MTS 1200 vs the FJR 1300.  He apparently really wanted the Duc, but couldn’t keep it under 90 on the test ride and decided he was too immature.  Wise beyond his years.

Had a nice chat with Hubert, the owner about politics and life in general.

Random tune of the day: Lovefool – The Cardigans

I woke up at 7:30 after wandering around 6th Street in Austin and going to bed at 3am.  I thought I’d spend some time sleeping in this morning and went to plug in my phone so it’d charge before I got up.  Unfortunately, turning off Airplane mode let the emails through and my monitoring said that my site was down again.  Spent the morning fixing that instead of sleeping.

I had planned on going to Salt Lick BBQ -http://www.saltlickbbq.com/ for lunch and since it was a little early, I thought I would go grab a coffee.   And what better than to have a donut to go with that coffee?   So since I was going to be in Round Rock anyway – Round Rock Donuts!  http://www.roundrockdonuts.com/

Plan was just 1 donut and coffee.  But after sweating outside in the line, I thought 2 would be better.  And just an extra one for later.  Didn’t quite work out that way – ate all 3 and finished my coffee.  Great breakfast – not healthy at all.   But I did manage to kill enough time for Salt Lick to open.

Thurman’s Choice plate – Ribs, Brisket and sausage.

Very different than Smitty’s Market.  This place bottles and sells their own BBQ sauce, and their meat is flavoured differently to match.  I really only had a taste of each before the donuts did their thing and filled me right up.   I just sat there staring at my plate.  Server kept asking if I was okay before I explained that the food was delicious and I was just stumped by my own poor decision making.  Packed it up, shoved it in the top case and tried to head east before the bad weather kicked in.

Having picked up a Misty Mate Classic (http://www.mistymate.com/misty-16-classic.html) recently, this was the day to try and get it set up to be useful on the bike.  Looks like it leaks a bit and putting it in the tankbag got everything wet in Austin so tried to find another location where I could put it to good use.   More of a distraction than anything else…

Eventually, I ran out of water in the mister and the hydration pack.  Combined with the coffee and iced teas, I needed to stop.   So pulling over at a McDonald’s, I paid my $1 to get a drink and used their facilities.   I guess I was in there longer than I thought, because by the time I came out, the skies had greyed over quite a bit.   Looking down the highway, it definitely looked like rain.

But since I was already on the road, I figured if I saw wet cars coming the other way with their wipers on, I’d stop to swap the GoPro into the waterproof case and put on some rain gear.  This was from the naive perspective of a Vancouverite.  Where there isn’t so much ‘rain’ as just wetness.  This was a proper thundershower.  The border between dry and soaking wet was maybe 30s.  I pulled over and swapped out the GoPro cases, but by the time that was done, I was already wet.

Having not much to lose at this point, I kept riding.  The storm front was intense – couldn’t see road lines and slowed down like crazy.  Didn’t take long before I was soaked to the bone – water swishing around in the boots.  But then clear skies!  Sun!

Shouldn’t take long before I dry off, right?   Wrong!   With the crazy humidity, I was just warm and less soggy.  Eventually the rain came back to the drizzle I’m used to…   Stopping for gas and to revisit directions, I put on the rain jacket and gloves to settle in for the rest of the commute.

30mins later, in Lake Conroe and watching the cops and ambulances speed by, I thought I should give up before getting run over.  I found a hotel in The Woodlands and made some online reservations.  Of course, by the time I made it to the hotel, the area was clear and dry.  I however, was not.

Oh… memories of Cali 2011.   Soaking wet gear propped up against the air conditioner.

Another day, another sunrise.  Is it bad I don’t even get out of the tent for it now?  I guess, to be fair, the KOA campground isn’t going to make a great picture.  I just rolled over after this and slept in.

I-10 to 183 to Lockhart – BBQ capital of Texas.  The whole town semed to smell of delicious smoke.  Had a bit of a break, so dropped by WalMart to pick up a tire bump and a quick Google search recommended Smitty’s Market

Smokey.  And the fire makes you sweat while in line.  Makes you appreciate what the cooks have to put up with…

1 hot sausage, 1/2 lb ribs, 1/2lb brisket.  Coleslaw and sweet tea.  Sweet tea was too sweet as always, but the Q was great.  Deep smokey flavour.  Only ate half of it and packed the rest.

Eagle-Eye hindsight in place, it’s possible Smitty’s was most popular because it was the one on the main highway, rather than the others that are a block or two off the main strip.   Oh well, it was still very good representation of “good q doesn’t need sauce” style.

Made it to Austin and swung by Uchi to find out when a good time to eat would be.

Had a few hours to kill, so grabbed a quick iced coffee before toodling around the city on Mendy without the roll.  What a huge difference.  Much more relaxing tooling around without all the extra weight.  The top case and panniers were still on and full.  Looking forward to riding her unencumbered one of these days.

Tried to find a good place to park to watch the Bat Flight and visit 6th Street later.  Many random one-way streets and a few missed turns later, I ended up by the lake.  And then up on the hill.  As a friend said – rich people live either on the water or with altitude.  This area had both.

Back down to the south end of the Congress Street bridge to wait for the bat flight.   It was a bridge retrofit years ago that introduced some bat friendly grooves.  Totally unintended consequence.

Can’t really see the bats.   Moving really fast against a dark backdrop.  This shot caught part of someone else’s flash.

Went for a late dinner at Uchi – http://meander.mezerkos.com/2012/06/29/day-29-uchi-austin/ before heading down to 6th Street.  Did a quick loop and parked the bike on 10th before exploring on foot.

Trading the riding pants for jeans wasn’t really enough.  Just meant my right leg got really hot from the exhaust from idling through the city.  I was still way, way too hot carrying my jacket along 6th.  I made a loop fo the blocks to see what was where.   Looks like mostly shooter bars and bad dance bars.  6th used to be the centre of live music in Texas, but now mostly for tourists and college kids.   As sweaty as I was, the free cover was quite nice.  It mean that I could go into clubs just to sit down and cool down – very much a new concept for a Vancouverite where fresh air is found outside.

In the end, the best part of going to 6th was getting back on the bike and the quick blast back to the hotel.   Not much traffic and couldn’t beat the cool air at that point.

Woke up with the sunrise again.  This KOA is nice, but still rather close to highway and airport.  Packed up my stuff and tried to set up an appointment for a new tire, but shop wasn’t open yet.  Spent some time hacking together a new cigarette lighter adapter.  I have slightly more reliable power now.

New shoes for Mendy… that’s what the Pilot Road 3s are supposed to look like.  My center sipes were all gone.

The Alamo is quite neat.  Not sure I really understand the significance without more US history under my belt.  But the park itself is really nice.  And the Shrine and gift shop has some really kicking A/C.

The San Antonio River Walk is really nice.  I can easily see wasting away many an afternoon there.   Restaurants and bars all along.  Probably not cheap, but I was saving room for something special.

Church’s Fried Chicken!  It all started at a “to go” shop across from The Alamo.  Unfortunately, it doesn’t seem like that location is there any more.  I went to the next closest one – it felt and smelt like the ones back home.  But on the whole, a disappointment.  Fries and Chicken were saltier than I am used to or like, and their “southern style” sandwich was lousy compared to Chik-fil-A.  Felt rather ill after finishing all that.

Without enough time to really get anywhere else, I rounded off the day with some shopping at Costco and Walmart.  Come to think of it, the last time I came away from a Ducati dealership, I went straight to a Costco too…

Delayed by a rodeo parade in Pescos. Town of the first rodeo ever.

Ran out of water before Ozona, so I stopped for gas and lunch. Rib eye, fried okra and sauteed veggies. What I was hoping Cracker Barrel would have been. Guess it makes sense the steak is better in Texas.

Random lookout. But I really stopped for…

the funky cloud. Reminds me of a cartoon lightning/tornado. Or maybe an ifrit.

Camping at KOA. Nice big roomy KOA with decent amenities. And a local duck in my campsite.