Day 68 – Snake Lake, Peggy’s Cove and Halifax

Not having very far to go, I had a fairly lazy morning.  Packed up the bike and went further into the park for a hike along the Snake Lake trail.  Either the map didn’t think it was important to note that the last bit of road was gravel or I wasn’t paying attention again.   Either way, a stressful bit of dirt road woke me up good and proper.

Trail was rather nice.  Lots of birds and insects.  Ran along the edge of two lakes –

Keji:

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Snake:

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Taking the 8 down south was fair bit of fun – fast little mountain roads.  Nothing serious but not boring.   Gassed up outside Liverpool and was told to go Transatlantico.  Nothing spectacular, but decent for a deep fried meal.  I probably should have opted for the salad instead of the poutined fries.  And I’ve probably peaked for fried clams – time to move onto something else.

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Stopped by Peggys Cove since it’s one of those ‘must stop’ locations.  If I had written down noes, I would have stopped in Lunenburg to see the Bluenose construction instead of just driving through it.

Peggys Cove Lighthouse:

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Very nice place, if a bit desolate and harsh.

Then into Halifax – which really isn’t far at all.  I managed to duck into Halifax Motorsports on my way past.  It was technically after hours, but the doors were still open and I was able to set up an appointment for the next morning.   Rear tire for Mendy sorted out – one less thing to worry about(or so I thought).

I made it to my friend’s “dream home” in Bedford.  Got a nice tour – lots of construction left to go.  But still beautiful – a bit hilly, but that comes with the territory if you want the views.  Sounds like the end goal is the finished house and a boat in the harbour they can see from the front door.  Makes me a bit jealous – but something to look forward to and a very good reason to come back to visit(maybe in a decade or two?).

After dinner, we went down to the Halifax waterfront and caught the buskers.  We waited for a good hour for the Dragonmasters from New Orleans to set up and do their thing.  Pretty talented b-boys, but as last minute replacements, their gear wasn’t up to the tasks.  They were pretty hard up for some good lighting, but they put on a good show.

Took a quick tour of the waterfront and grabbed a Beaver Tail.  Traditional street party food!

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We got back to the house and had a Long Island Iced tea for a night cap.   I think that drink will always remind me of Pub Golf and the AMF in Florence, Oregon.  With that, it was definitely time to go to bed to make my 10am appointment the next morning.

Day 66 – To Clare

I woke up before my early alarm, but went back to sleep.   Probably a bit of a mistake, since when I did wake up, it was to a wall of fog.   Everything was damp – and without enough time, I didn’t really have the luxury of wiping it all down.

Still, the prep work the night before helped me get on the road in 45mins.  Things on the bike could have been packed a little better, but more than adequate.  Unfortunately, the weather made things rather stressful.  Minimal visibility.

There was fog everywhere, but you could see where the trees had blocked the worst of it. Very clear lines and beginnings of walls of fog.  Going the speed limit was something I wasn’t all the comfortable with…  Not something that bothered the truckers.  I pulled over for a truck, but just no way I could keep up.   Made me a touch nervous about being on the road and getting run over…

Fortunately, the fog was sparse inland and the sun even poked through and I made good time.  It got thicker again as I got closer to the ferry terminal, but I made the 8am ferry with a few minutes to spare.   Plenty of room, and I got my first experience at tying Mendy down for the ferry ride.  With her occasionally refusing to cooperate and lock the steering, it can be uncomfortable just getting off.  Winching it down with tie-down straps isn’t a great feeling either.   Still, what’s done is done and upstairs for some breakfast:

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Ferry ride really isn’t all that long.  Barely enough time to eat, walk around the boat and take pictures before it was time to go down and release Mendy.   Gassing up in Pictou, I took the coastal route.  Nice windy bits of road, kind of makes me wonder what 236 would have been like – the turn off looked great, but I thought it more important to get a feel for the Bay of Fundy.

Gassing up again, I realized that I should probably shouldn’t show up empty handed.   (Technically, I had the Hershey magnet and chocolate bar.  But it was pretty melted.) I looked for a liquor store before realizing it was Sunday and they probably weren’t open.   Fortunately there were signs for wineries along the way.   I ducked off to the Grand Pre Winery, and ended up at the Historical Site.

Beautiful place:

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Got to pick up some more Canadian history.  In the struggle of empires, it’s always the peasants that get run over.  From the British perspective, it probably was easier to expel the Acadians from the land rather than sort out who was or who was not loyal.  They had a rather neat multimedia movie/hologram presentation.  Definitely one of the better ones this trip – brings the Canadian Park AV standard up a few notches.

But in the process of my education, I managed to drop my Discovery Parks pass…  Lots of wandering in the hot sun to retrace my steps and find it again.  Uncomfortable and sweaty, I got back on the road to go 3 blocks and onto Grand Pre Winery.  Very nice place and made me reminisce over the Napa and Kelowna wine tours of years past – “I love paying tolls.”

They didn’t have anything on reserve at the winery – everything on their shelves was available at the gov’t liquor stores.  But their top seller, the Tidal Bay is often sold out so I picked up a bottle.  And because it’s a touristy kind of place, my BCAA card got me 10% off.  Score!

I made it outside of Digby before needing to stop for gas.   Grabbed a cup of coffee at Timmy’s and then crossed the parking lot to McD’s.  They had a sign for the McLobster –  it’s in season!

Not the best lobster I’ve had this trip, but it was also the cheapest.   I suppose you get what you pay for.  Checked it off the list, no real need to ever eat it again.   Especially since almost anywhere they’re going to have this, there will be better lobster available for not much more.

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By this time, the grey fog and clouds had rolled in.. It was looking to be an ugly night.  Still a couple of wrong turns before making it to the address I was given.   Rolling into the gravel driveway, I parked the bike and the inhabitants of the house came out to ask what I wanted.

I guess my superb communication skills had neglected to include a few salient points.  That I was alone and on a motorcycle.  After that little detail was explained and a little back story filled in, I was invited to join their mini family reunion. (The bottle of award winning wine helped too.  Yay booze!)

Even though less than half the family was there, it was still a nice sit-down dinner of pork chops.  After so many meals by myself, this was definitely one of the highlights of the trip.  Three generations, sibling bickering and cousins goofing around, it was just a great energy.    Very grateful to be included.

After chatting over dessert and a few beers, playing Rummikub with all three generations of family and watching some TV, it was time to retire to my friend’s old basement room.  Very good day – nice mix of riding, catching a slice of east coast life and meeting a friendly group of people.   Couldn’t ask for much more.

Day 65 – North Cape and Charlottetown

Early morning, early start!   And with the bags off the bike, I decided to take Mendy out encumbered with only the top case.   Sport Mode with Rider + 1 luggage suspension makes for a less daunting ride.  Handling is better and I can afford to be a little less vigilant when coming to a stop in parking.

Up to North Cape and getting the riding portion of the day out of the way.  Stopped in Alberton for some breakfast and saw some RCMP officers.  I was tempted to ask them what the speeding situation was on the Island.  Having been close to run down a few times going at the speed limit, and now riding without all that extra gear, I was moving at a more… spirited pace.   Still nothing compared to the locals in their pickup trucks, but definitely quicker than the posted limit and sustained.

North Cape was nice, if a little remote:

And another reminder my reading comprehension on this trip isn’t at a level where it should be.  For some reason, I thought the Tip to Tip route was out to the West Lighthouse and not the Northern one.  Fortunately, reading the interpretive trail boards directed me to get my certificate here.  Unlikely the certificate will survive the trip home, but hopefully the ribbons make it.

West coast of PEI is different, and a fairly nice ride.

Unfortunately, not many gas stations on the ring road.  The light came on and I figured I’d bump into a bigger town sooner or later.  By the time I passed Cedar Dunes, I was starting to regret my decision not to pack all my gear with me.  Or, at least, maybe carry my jerry can.  Reception was a little spotty, but Google Maps did direct me into O’Leary.  I took the first ‘direct’ route… And it was, naturally, a gravel road.  But made it through with just a little sweating and gassed up before heading up towards Cavendish.

Little detour to the birthplace of Lucy Maud Montgomery:

Cavendish is the tourist trap of PEI.  All the usual haunts are there – water parks, go karts, mini golf, Ripley’s Believe it or Not Museum, etc.   But to make it PEI, lots of places were named after things from Anne of Green Gables books.  Since I figured a beach was always a beach, I went to the Green Gables area instead.

Green Gables House:

Lover’s Lane:

It’s an interesting location – essentially a historic park, centered around an entirely fictional character.  They aim to be true to the era and the character, while just accepting the fact that it really was a fantasy that made it all possible.  In most ways, I thought it was better than the US historical parks – but I suppose that’s also to do with the fact that the source material is available in print rather than just conjecture.

The ‘nature’ portion of the park was quite nice.  Just past Lover’s Lane is a loop that runs past the golf course.  Reminded me of day camp in Richmond as a kid.  Couldn’t tell you why, it just does.

Walking around made me hungry, so I grabbed a snack at the cafe:

I also went to the gift shop – I probably should have taken a picture of myself with the red pigtails.   But I had just passed the ranger making an ass of himself for the japanese girls.  Not an act I was going to follow.  Situations like this make me realize it when it’s best to travel with friends and family.  Silliness recorded for posterity.

Wrapping things up at the park, I went to Charlottetown and Province House.  Birthplace of Confederation and all that.  I got into downtown, found a parking spot and fed the meter.  Fairly pleased that it was so cheap… Until I looked around and realized that it was a weekend and parking was free anyway.  D’oh!

Where the papers were signed – minus PEI.

Some folks had a wedding and were taking pictures.   Pretty sweet location for such.

Charlottetown’s night life isn’t exactly bumping.  But they do have a few pedestrian only streets that are quite nice.  Patio dining and live piano/band playing on the street.  Maybe it picks up later in the evening, but I was getting tired and had an early morning to catch the ferry.

The internets directed me to Gahan’s for a quick bite.   I opted for the fish’n’chips in a paper bag.   Decent place, good vibe.  But as a brew pub, I think I really needed to have a beer for the full experience.  Some other time, maybe.

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Cow’s ice cream – first location.

In honor of the London Olympics, I ordered the English Toffee.   Rather disappointed – I guess it wasn’t very popular.  Mine had shards of ice in it.

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Back to camp, I shuffled things around to give myself an easier time in the morning.  Loaded up all the cases and prepped the roll.  Morning should be just be tying the roll on and packing up the tent before racing for the ferry.

 

Day 64 – PEI – Just the Tip

Up early and packed the bike, but not an early start.   Just too tempting to hang around and chat.  Actually ate breakfast and picked up a few more books for my wish list, but eventually, it was time to part ways.

Picture with the little one before I hit the road.

Confederation bridge is really, really long.  Side walls are a bit high, hard to get a good picture over the edge.

Missed a few exits, but eventually made my way over to Island Chocolates and ordered the Factory Coffee – warm chocolate lined cup with their house coffee.

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Sat down and enjoyed the drink with Rupert, a Newfoundlander.   Everyone thought he was my dog, although a few people put it together that motorcycle gear and a giant dog don’t mix very well.

Great place to hang out, very motorcycle friend.  Owner’s son had recently gone on a 1400km trip, but tales of my trip made his relatively local trip look short.  But he was gearing up for a long trip down to South America.   Something I’ve thought about doing for a while, but never got around to it.  Wish him the best!

After dropping into PEI National Park and setting up camp in Stanhope, near Dalvay, I started on their scenic drives.   A few missed turns later, I ended up Georgetown.   Saw a couple of bikes pulled over in a gravel lot and figured it was good a place as any to grab some lunch.

Fried Clams – a little more like oysters than I thought they’d be.  Nice afternoon in the sun and trying to get through Anne of Green Gables on the Kindle.

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View from the restaurant.

East Point Lighthouse

They have a “Tip to Tip” program to get people to travel the Island.   Didn’t even know about it until I got there, but figured, why not?  I was likely to ride the scenic routes and a certificate would be nice.

The roundabout way around the east put me at Greenwich an hour before sunset.  Well, to be fair, it didn’t.  I missed the turnoff to the park and had to turn around.   And in my rush, I left my map pouch open.   Buzzing my way to the park, I felt something hit my leg, just to see stuff fly back in my mirror.   Lost my Tip to Tip ribbon, my Discover Parks pass and most of my maps.   Had to backtrack and pick it all up…

The hike is rated for 1.5h, round trip.  My history has shown that if I hurry, I could probably get it done faster.  But since I needed to make dinner when I got back to camp, I decided to pass.  Next time!

 

Day 62 – Sprocket and Shore House

The happy-go-lucky great weather in Canada was bound to come to an end.   I woke up early enough, 5:30.   Things were grey outside, but not raining.  I made the mistake of turning over and going back to sleep.   By the time I was awake, it was raining.  Hard.   Solid, miserable rain.

Packing would be an adventure, so I sat tight in my tent trying to pack what I could.  Given the weather, it was time to change my packing solution.   Stuff everything into the roll and put the tent on the outside.   Relatively successful, beats my old method of dumping everything on the picnic table.

In Fundy Park, people suggested I swing by Hopewell Rocks if I could manage the tides.   It being completely miserable, I didn’t bother stopping at the Visitor Center on the way out by Alma.  I still managed to make a wrong turn, but turned back to try to see Enrage Point. Disgusting amount of rain meant it was going to be views of grey on grey.  For $5, I didn’t think it was worth it, pulled down into the gravel lot and turned around.

Next stop was actually the Hopewell Rocks.  Stinking, ridiculous amounts of rain.

Probably the worst weather so far.   And it was now very apparent my left boot liner had a leak.  My foot was swimming by the time I pulled into the parking lot.  And somehow, I had managed to arrive deadsmack in between the tides.  It wasn’t high or low tide…  It’s recommended to spend about 3h at the park.   It was 11am and I needed to be in Moncton by 3.   Stopped in the cafeteria for a coffee before heading back into the cold and wet.

Pulled into Atlantic Motorcycle right behind a GS from BC!   Rider from Victoria had spent the past few weeks coming out east.  Very relaxed pace and he was getting them to pack it up and take a flight home.  Not too bad, about $950 to get it across the country.   Nice to know that if everything fell apart, it wouldn’t be that bad to get Mendy home.

After dropping things off for servicing, I went across the parking lot to the Vietnamese place.  Spring rolls and pho!

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Not exactly the best quality and felt rather bloated by the time I was finished.   When I went back, they didn’t have the bike ready, so I spent some time in their lunch room processing the GoPro footage.

The wet boots and early morning (and possibly the MSG overdose) all hit me at once.   Crashed pretty hard sitting in at their little tables.  Pounding heading, exhaustion, cold shakes.   All in all, miserable.  Even when they told me the bike was ready, it took me a good 10 minutes just to pack things up and get down the stairs.

Getting to the Shore House was rather interesting.  My bout of illness hadn’t quite passed yet and I managed to miss my exit a few times.  On top, my reading comprehension was a little lacking.  I misread the street number and ended up zipping back and forth a bunch of times looking for an address that didn’t exist.  But, eventually found it and settled in.

All smiles a tail wags to welcome me into the lot, but everyone disappeared shortly after to hide from the rain, leaving me to unpack on my own.  Stuff wasn’t too badly packed, but it did mean that the consolation to move the tent to the outside meant that the tent was soaked.  Disgustingly so.

After changing out of my wet gear, I made my way into the house and met the rest of the family.  And in particular, the new addition!  Dinner was in the oven and everyone was doing their part(except me, I suppose).  It was great telling my stories – but even better, with the baby, I wasn’t the center of attention.  I think it might have gotten a tad awkward, or at least uncomfortable for me if there wasn’t someone more important around.

I got filled in on the Olympics and got to see the new family of hummingbirds outside the kitchen window.

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Great dinner and fruit and ice cream for dessert.  It was awesome being made felt like part of the family.  Although it was nice to have a few drinks with the meal, it did end up with me knocking over my glass of wine.

 

 

Day 61 – Fundy National Park

Woke up relatively early to a clear day.  Not much activity when I started, but by the time I was ready go go, everyone around me was cooking bacon and eggs.   Made me so hungry…

On the road back out to the main highway, I got passed multiple times on the double solid yellow.  I guess my very mellow morning pace at or just above the posted limit of 60 was no where near fast enough.  Mostly pickups – not really sure where they were in rush off to…

Grabbed a pic at The Source:

And another one by the park sign:

And then I was on my way.   The plan was to take the long way around – 126 to 116 before getting to Fundy, but missed the 116 turnoff and just kept going.  Found a few cars to follow, which made going well above the speed limit easier.  Gas light came on and I pulled over in Salisbury to fill up and bumped into an old Fireblade rider.   We talked for a bit and he let me know that in NB, it’s over 40kph over posted that they’re likely to charge you with stunting/racing and take away your license.  Good fact to know!

I went in to use the washroom, but seeing the people eat broke me and I stopped for breakfast.

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Getting into Fundy National Park wasn’t too bad after that.

Little windy path along the river, but nothing serious.  Got my stamp and was recommended to go to Pointe Wolfe for  a camp site and the possibility of a fire that night.

Wandered down to take one of the shorter hikes – to the old copper mine.  Bumped into a couple who were on the first camping trip with their 7month old.   First camping trip ever!   Reminds me of my first trip to Manning Park.  From what I remember and what I’ve been told, it was a lot of tripping in the rain and crying before cutting the trip short and going home.  Far cry from this little guy’s first experience.   Bouncing along in a baby backpack and parents singing to keep him quiet.  He did like staring at me tho’ –  made taking a family picture for them a little easier.

I picked up my bag of firewood on my way back to camp and prepped the fire pit.   Few people dropped by to chat while I did this.  Definitely telling my story more often now, but still not really sure what to say.  Fortunately, my experience has been epic enough that it’s usually not too difficult to tie into their trip or their home town.

Worst thing was, everyone who came by was curious as to what I’d be doing about the rain – which was due overnight/morning.  Bleh.  After prepping things for the evening – chopping some kindling and packing up the bags so things wouldn’t get wet, I went back out for another short hike.

Covered Bridge that I got to ride through!

The path itself wasn’t too bad.  More polish – more posted signs about trees and wildlife.  Made me want to see a marmot and some flying squirrels, but no such luck.   It’s possible the squirrels I did see were the right ones, but I didn’t get to see any flying.

Another sign about lichen made me think about a trip way back when with my cousins to Well’s Grey.  Boardwalk and stairs made me think about carrying a can of pepsi all the way down to Long Beach, only to drop it at the very end.  Crazy what the memory brings back.

With everything prepped, it was rather nice to get the fire going.  I even spent a bunch of time to roast some canned luncheon meat.  Some mild entertainment while I did some reading on the kindle in my camp chair.

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A second solid night in the Canadian Parks system!

Day 60 – Kouchi National Park

Not an early start, but since I really needed to wait for Atlantic Motorsport to open, I wasn’t in much of a rush.   Packed things up, had a coffee with some neighbours across the way and relaxed.  Unfortunately, while I was dwaddling, the fog moved in and cast a grey pall over everything.

I also took this time to give Service Canada a call.  I was supposed to inform them when I got back into the country.  As usually, calling their phone number even after 8:30 resulted in them ‘not being open yet’.  Although, I suppose it’s possible that Atlantic time is messing me up…  In any case, I brought my online EI reports up to date and planned to call them another day.

Also had a chance to speak to Atlantic Motorsport, gave them my VISA number so they could order my part.   I tried using Dell Voice/Fongo again, but the call quality is apparently terrible.  They always sound fine, but they can never hear me.  Will keep trying, but it might be something to do with their VOIP configuration or Bell’s data plan…

On the road, it was brisk.  18C or so, with some fog.   Moisture and wind cools you down quick!  But it didn’t last long before the skies cleared up.   I stuck to some back roads and went out to Miramichi on 108.  It’s like the side roads in Maine, and yet different.  Definitely damaged and bumpy – going past the posted speed limit wasn’t difficult, but took enough attention that you couldn’t look around.  Hard to relax.

Another thing different is the difference in highway signage.  The stuff in Canada doesn’t seem as clear – if you don’t know which way to go, just following the signs can get you lost.  The 108 just seemed to end and I took the wrong way down 8.   Exits are far, far apart – fortunately, there’s little enough traffic that I could use the shoulders to turn around and get into the city.

Lunch at Timmy’s – Lasagna casserole and a donut.   I’m not convinced it’s actually better than Chef Boy r Dee pasta…

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Got to Kouchi and bought a Discovery Pass for the National Parks.  And apparently the Canadian park system has passport(s) and stamps now!  No dates on the stamps, so I’m not really sure it’s as useful as the US system.  But gives me something to do at the Visitor Centers.

Set up camp to let things sit in the sun and air out a little bit to dry out the damp from packing up in the morning.   Lobed the chain as well before heading out to the beach.

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Got myself rather stuck out on the sandbars.  I guess there’s a good reason why they have a boardwalk out to the barrier sandbars.   Ended up having to double back to get to shore.  Not sure whether I was out at high or low tide – Could have gotten even uglier.

Grabbed a snack at the shop – Our national dish!

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Picked up some firewood before heading out to one of the evening events at the park.  Presentation about the Salt Marsh – at this point, there’s another difference from the US system.  Better budget and production values.  the Salt Marsh boardwalk has apparently been closed since a storm in 2010.  Still not repaired and it’s mid-2012.  And since you couldn’t go out to the Salt Marsh yourself anymore the interpreter had made her own video.   Lots of wind noise and plenty of AV issues.  Definite change of pace.

Finally got another chance for a camp fire! Tent was dry, free hot showers.  Aside from getting bitten again by mosquitos – a very satisfactory Canadian park experience.

Day 59 – Sabbath

Good night’s rest and waking up to a warm sunny day.  Without any concrete plans for the trip and a distinct need to do laundry, I thought it would be a good day to take off and do nothing.  Laundry room wouldn’t be open until after 10:30, so I had some time to kill.

Being a Sunday, I thought it might be a good chance to finally go to service – unfortunately, having discovered that this town has a 95% francophone only population, it was more difficult than I thought to find a service in English.  I eventually made my way to United Presbyterian which had a bilingual service.  Not being able to find a website, I got there way too early and spooked the people there before heading off to run some errands.

Getting back to the church shortly before service actually started, I had a nice chat with some of parishioners.    Apparently the head pastor was off on a 2 week vacation and they suspected most of the church population was going to do the same thing.  They normally had about 80 regulars, but today would be closer to 30.

Sermon was on counting your blessings and balancing against your responsibilities.  What got me was the translation from English into French after every sentence.  Made me thing of those old school bilingual services at VCBC.  As always, the translation made the sermon run a lot longer than if it were just a single language.

Grabbed some sausages on my way back to camp and started my load of laundry before eating and napping on my picnic table.  It wasn’t until I finished my drying that the hosts pointed out that they had a beach with some chairs for me to sit on instead.      I went back into town to grab something cold to drink before taking their suggestion.

In the meantime, a manic neighbour came in.  Nice guy, but very ‘in your face’.  Ver open about his situation and I couldn’t help but be a touch paranoid about my stuff.  He was smoking and volunteered the fact that he was going to die from Hep C before the smoking could possibly do him in.   And that he picked it up from running with a biker gang and injecting cocaine.  And that he would be around, but needed to find an AA meeting before calling it a night and heading back out towards Halifax.

I guess he was clean and sober – I also didn’t have to worry about my stuff.  He had finally settled his divorce and freed up his money.  His car was full of new stuff he just bought – laptop, DSLR camera, etc.  Hard not to judge, another lesson learned, I suppose.

Left him on his own and went to the beach – Just some gravel next to the stream, but nice to hear the running water while napping.

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Brought my stuff up to date, figured out a few spots to go to – Kouchi National Park, Fundy National Park and was told to attempt PEI sooner rather than later in case winds closed it.   Some sort of plan in place, I called it a night and planned to call Atlantic Motorsport in the morning to sort out the sprocket for Mendy.

Day 58 – Big Sur and Madawaska

Early start!  Figured today would be the day I’d get back into Canada.  And with the early start, I thought I’d take some detours and hopefully pick up a little bit of good riding in the morning.  Took the 1, but a nice little loop out to Jonesport along the 187.   Typical Maine side road – a few twists and turns, but bumpy and damaged.  Not great, but a nice distraction.

Needed gas, so stopped for some in Milbridge.   They had some breakfast fundraiser, so food was on the brain.   Eventually pulled over in Machias for a meal.

Big 2:  2x eggs, 2x sausage, 2x bacon, 2x pancakes.  Pancakes were the best part, but they undercooked them and I had to get new ones.  New ones were definitely on the ‘done’ side, but I understand, given what happend the first time around.   Sausage links were cold, but I’d still go back.

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Another loop along the 1/191 and a small detour out to Lubec – easternmost town in USA.  Kind of wondered why the 4th corner wasn’t here.

Very pretty in Lubec:

Back along the 1 to Calais – stopped for gas and figured Madawaska wasn’t far away and I’d grab lunch there.   Again, my map reading skills were poorly applied.  I guess swapping between map pages and scales meant I was way off base.   100miles later, I was starving and pulled over to figure out where I was – Danforth.  Still a 100 miles to go, so I decided to eat.

Bright pink hot dog.  Like… ridiculously pink on a roll.

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Wasn’t quite enough food, so I had a slice of pizza too.

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As I was eating, I had a nice chat with a Goldwing rider/trucker.  He had some advice – take the 1A and stop at the Four Corners park.   Good advice!  I otherwise had no idea it even existed.  I would have just gone to the post office.   There’s a sign, but he said to look for the windmill/gas station.  Pass that and you’ve gone too far.

It is a big sign, but still easy to miss since it’s up on a hill.

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Nice little turnout with a metal kick stand pad for bikers – too narrow for cars!   Multi 620 rider was up here in her convertible and we had a little chat about the IBA rally’s.  Managed to wrangle her into taking a picture for me before she drove off.

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I tried to stop by the Harley dealership/store.  I figured they sponsored the park and I needed a butt pad.  What better place to throw some business?   Unfortunately, they close 4pm on Saturdays and I didn’t even get to the park until 5pm.  Oh well, I tried.

I crossed the bridge and into Canada…  I was hoping there was a duty free store, but no luck.  So I crossed over after 58 days in the US without buying my quota of alcohol and tabacco.  Blasphemy!   Oh well… Not like I really had a place to put it anyway.

Sat in the Customs inspection zone pulling images off the GoPro and onto the Laptop.   Running painfully low on space.   Gonna need to do something about it before an SaddleSore attempt – Can’t waste 40 minutes processing/copying video onto the laptop partway through.

I did look for a place to stay – but for whatever reason, all the motels/hotels were booked up in Edmundston and Great Falls.  Not sure why, but as far as Expedia was concerned, no rooms.   There seemed to be cheap places back in Madawaska, but I didn’t really want to cross the border again, so I thought I’d push on towards Moncton and try my luck… But once on the road, it felt like it had dropped 10C just crossing over the border(but it was more likely the shade/mountains).   I quickly ducked back off and found a camp site – Riverside RV Park.   Very nice folks, and a proper tent camping area.  Grabbed a spot next to the tree house, close enough to steal power for the laptop and went out to buy groceries.

So… It took all of 2h and a visit to Zellers before I missed the USA.   I really, really didn’t think it’d happen so quickly.  Zellers is like a smaller, darker, crummier, more expensive version of Walmart with less selection.   No more SPAM singles, no more foil/tear packs of tuna.  No more Nong Shin korean spicy instant noodles.  Not even Beenie Weenies!

I should have just stocked up in the USA before crossing over and bought booze at a Wal-mart.  Oh well, lesson learned.  Dinner of Lipton’s Carbonara with milk.

Day 57 – Acadia National Park

Woke up to some moisture on the ground.  Nothing big, and at first, Raindar didn’t even say it was rain.   Had some free breakfast and chatted to a Harley rider.  He had done a 600mile day up here to do some skeet shooting before riding up to Bar Harbour with his mom for her birthday.  Very cool – but the rain wasn’t.

After some discussion, we both came to the conclusion that it was going to be like this for the better part of the day and put on our rain gear before going our separate ways.  Hopes at an early start were a bit derailed.  But nice to chat about longish distances and places.  Especially about long distances for the Iron Butt – “miles and miles of miles and miles”.   Very good way to describe ideal IBA stretches.

Grey and drizzly – not bad for riding.

Funky suspension bridge… Only one lane on either side of the supports.   Seemed like a lot of effort to me.  But neat to ride:

Picked up some gas in Trenton and decided to go across the parking lot for some lunch.  After seeing so many signs on the way in for Lobster Roll’s, I figured this might not be a bad place.

Lobster Roll with chickles(chips and pickles) – pretty decent.  Hard to understand why it’s $16 when a lobster with potato salad is $18.  I guess labour and guessing and the amount to prep before hand so it’s cold?   Still, a good meal, very fresh.  But hardly cheap.

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After Trenton, I ducked into Acadia National Park.  I had originally envisioned a quick stop – especially with the rain and pushing on through Maine’s Big Sur, if not Madawaska and into Canada.   Weather cleared up and started getting warm at the Visitor Center.  By the time I stopped at the trailhead, I needed to take the gear off anyway.  So I went for a hike on Great Head Trail.

Crossing the beach to get to the trail head:

Looking back after the initial climb:

Views from the top:

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Up to Cadillac Mountain – Viewpoint:

Shot from the top – Highest point on eastern seaboard.  Sign said that if you were the only one up there at sunrise, you’d be the first person in the US to see the sun.  Bumped into a few riders up at the top when I was making trips to/from Mendy to the store/washroom.  One was from Seattle and said he’d show me around if I ever wanted to go riding in Oregon – but to take off most of the luggage so I’d have some fun.   Everyone recognizes how heavily laden I am…  National Parks have a tendency to have people see me earlier in the dan and then come up to talk to me after.  People stop at all the best stops, I guess.

Ducked into Bar Harbour since I kept hearing about it.   Nothing special from what I could see – just a really nice tourist town.  But they did have a nice dock and the other couple up at Cadillac Mountain mentioned that they were talking to one of the owners.  24000 gallon tank to fill up the boat – at $4/g, that’s $100K just to fill up.  Crazy.

Not sure which one it is, but maybe that boat on the left?

I had planned on grabbing a bite in Bar Harbour, but things looked expensive and busy.  No great places to stop, so I headed back out towards Winter Harbour, being told that there was a nice ride.  Stopping at one of the ‘shacks’, I had the lobster roll special – $8.75 for the combo.   Clearly not as good.  Didn’t taste as fresh and much smaller.  Locals were eating it too, so couldn’t have been all that bad.

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I had been told there was a shortcut to Winter Harbour w/out going all the way back to Ellsworth, so I asked the locals about it.  They recommended against it – didn’t save much miles and too easy to get lost.  But they did mention another route 182 around. A bit twisty and should be okay for time to do Winter Harbour as well.

182 wasn’t bad – but like most of the smaller roads around here, pretty rough.  Lots of cracks and bumps, but at least it was fairly clean. Getting back to Winter Harbour wasn’t so good… Much further than I thought and not many motels.

Still Schoodic point was a nice loop.  Very glad I did it and at the time I did.  It wasn’t quite sunset, but with the clouds/fog rolling it, it was close enough:

If I had a place in mind to stay, would have been able to relax a bit more and enjoyed my time.  But, instead, I was on edge most of the time and rushing things.  The 186 back out to 1 was much like 182 – bumpy.   And bits of sand.   I pushed harder than normal and as it got dark, it was clear I was tripping the traction control.   Not good.

But eventually I passed a campground and without much light left, I pulled in and set up.  Enough daylight left to lube the chain – and finished off the PJ1 and started the can from Seacost.  Perfect timing on the purchase.  But the mosquitos were thick… I left my riding gear on to set up camp, so that took a little longer than normal.    Still managed to inhale a few of the bloodsuckers tho’.

But by the time I was done and walked back out to the main street, the lobster shack next door and closed for the night.  Dinner was spam and tuna from packets served with hot sauce.  Ducking into the tent and killing the dozen or so mosquitos that had gotten in, I called it a night and hoped I didn’t need to pee in the night.   Man, I hate insects sometimes…