Went to hide in the tent early to hide from the bugs.  Couldn’t really stop sweating, so ended up falling asleep a nasty combination of sticky and slimy.  I didn’t shower once for the entire first week of this trip and didn’t feel as gross as I do now after one day.  Although, it’s possible that the BMW Rallye3 Suit has picked up a little bit of grime.

And to top it off, I woke up a little before 2am last night to the tent smacking me in the head again.  I opened my eyes to flashing white lights.   Lots of lightning, but no thunder.  At first.

I got up anyway, checked the stuff out by the picnic table and Mendy before pegging out the tent in case it did rain.  Good thing too, since as soon as I got back inside the tent, it started to rain.  Raindar basically showed I was surrounded by systems.

It did rain that night and packing up a wet tent sucks.  I think if it had actually still been raining in the morning, i would’ve just sucked it up and waited it out.  The campsite was free, after all.  So asian of me… I was so confused trying to figure out how to pay for the site the previous night and so thrilled to find out it wouldn’t cost anything…

Still, I had a nice chat with the old folks in the campground – only other occupied site when I arrived.   He and his wife used to ride around the country on Goldwings with a trailer.  He misses it dreadfully but at 75, his knees couldn’t keep the bike upright anymore.

As I got on the bike, the Trace was a very welcome scene.  Cool(27C), no traffic, blue skies.  All was right with the world.  The tent is just a place to sleep – on this trip, the bike is ‘home’.  Very grateful and happy to be where I was this morning.

Otherwise, the ride to Memphis was uneventful.  Once off the trace along 78, it started warming up.  Interstate straights with road work made me long for the greenery and slower pace of the Trace.   It climbed to 35C by the time I got to the motel.  Only bit of interest was the highway signs reminding me to be careful – 69 motorcycle fatalities so far.

After checking in, I went to Gus’s Fried Chicken.  I went all out and ordered the deep fried pickles to start, a half chicken (all 4 pieces) and their sweet tea.

Very good fried chicken.  Tender and moist all the way through, nice crispy skin.  Overall, more subtle than Coop’s, but a little more traditional “fried” taste.   Even better with hot sauce and ranch, although I hesitate when I consider how much food I’m cramming down my gullet when I do that.

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I basically ate myself sick.  Forced the coleslaw down, since I need the ‘veggies’.  Not a big fan, I think they add sugar or something to it.   Barely touched the beans.  The plan was to pack some of it for ‘later’.  This technique has been fairly hit and miss – anything good enough, I just scarf it down and just feel sick instead.

I limped over towards the river and sat under a tree for a while.

Then headed back to check out the Gibson factory.  Wall o’ Gibons!

Unfortunately, the tour was sold out.  I went across the street to the Rock ‘n Soul museum instead.  Interesting mix of movie, memorabilia and old tracks.  Kind of made me wish I could actually purchase some music and set up for the road.  Gift shop only sells CDs and I have no way of converting that to something useful.

Back out to Beale St at night – live music at the park.

Nightlife!  Orderly compared to 6th Street.  Police barricades and ID checks on the streets for the street party.  But from speaking to the locals, it sounds like it’s Saturday that’s crazy.  Friday nights are quite laid back.

Dinner at Blues City Cafe.  These were probably the most classic of the ribs I’ve had so far.  Decent smoke, caramelized sauce.  Very good, solid meal.  But not something I’ll miss.

BB King All Stars for music, dancing and drinks.