Had to backtrack into town in the morning to get gas, so wandered back and grabbed some food as well. Bologna was a meat I hadn’t seen offered in a while, so I went for that.
Looped back to grab proof I made it into Cape Bretton:
Western coast reminded me of the old Sea to Sky – just cleaner and less busy.
Went on the short ‘bog’ hike along a boardwalk:
Detour up to Bay of St Lawrence:
But overall, Cape Breton Highlands Park and the Cabot Trail was a lot smaller than I thought it was going to be. The roads were good – relatively clean. But not really all that spectacular. Definitely worth riding if you’re out in the Maritimes – but I don’t see enough of a draw to drag me back out here across the country.
Got me a campsite in Ingonish before heading up to Neils Harbour for some lunch. Another non-decision with the Fisherman’s Platter at Chowder House:
Fried clams/clam strips were terrible. Definitely peaked on that one. Scallops were good, as were the steamed mussels. And everything tastes better with a side of butter!
The scenic route up along the coast was a better ride than the Cabot Trail. Roads weren’t as nicely maintained, but more interesting overall. Better views too. From what the old timer said back at the restaurant, views were better 25+ years ago before the trees grew in…
Looping down past Ingonish, I went on the Middle Head hike.
Partway through, I realized that the previous day’s hiking had taken it’s toll. Hip flexors and feet ached and I was not making good time. Once I got to the point, I pulled up on a rock and took a nap… Zonked out, by the time the people I passed on the trail caught up with me, there was a kerfuffle about a dead whale near the point. Spent some time looking for it, but no luck.
Getting back to camp, I lubed Mendy’s chain and sat around staring off into space, trying not to fall asleep. I had picked out another site with a fire ring(more expensive), so I needed to go back to town and pick up some wood. But my laziness(and wakefulness!) was rewarded as a guy came by in a pickup a little while later to sell wood. $5 for an ‘armload’. Not the driest wood, but cheapest this trip.
I still wish I was camping, and not just road tripping with a tent. The camp fire makes up for a lot, but usually just means I’m putting off updating the blog. More procrastinating than actually enjoying the fire for it’s own sake. And with the ridiculously dinky little elevated fire rings, it’s actually rather difficult to burn a load of wood a night. I would have had to a lot more hatchet work to finish everything off, but as it was, I let it burn out and woke up with half a log and some kindling left for the next guy.
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